﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Boston BMW Chapter Forum / Boston BMW CCA Forums / Ask a Professional BMW Mechanic </title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.4</generator><description>Boston BMW Chapter Forum</description><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/</link><webMaster>BostonForum@boston-bmwcca.org</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 12:33:52 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>540i E39 catalytic converter failures</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4747-7-1.aspx</link><description>This is a 1997 540i E39 that has had 2 sets of cats in the past and now once again getting these codes. Is there a way to test if someother issue is causing the failures like the O2 sensors or MAF? What should I expect to pay for diagmosis? I do most of my own mechanical work but can't get this one nailed down.Thanksbob</description><pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 16:25:03 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>bzockoff</dc:creator></item><item><title>Hood won't open</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4601-7-1.aspx</link><description>The hood on my 86, 325 BMW is stuck. I've tried pulling the cable with vise-grips, and tried turning the screw behind the grill with a long screw driver but still no luck.  The screw doesn't want to turn and I don't want to break it.  Should I be turning the screwdriver clockwise or counter-clockwise to release the catch?  Any other suggestions?</description><pubDate>Mon, 07 Nov 2011 15:38:49 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>warehambmw</dc:creator></item><item><title>Oil leaks in 2007 M Coupe</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4680-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi MikeThe car is a 2007 M Coupe with 27,000 miles. I had a PPI done and it came back with the following issues: 1. Prior damage to the front right behind the bumper. Body parts had been replaced, AC condensor was not replaced properly, front right wheel bent. 2. Oil leak at rear differential and drive shaft 3. Oil leak at front of motor. He said it could be a seal at timing cover or chain tensioner, or possibly even from the head gasket but probably not. 4. Leak at high pressure power steering line The best case estimate from the independent BMW tech (in CT) to fix it was $700 not including the wheel and the the alignment that I assume it must need. Worst case was $1700, and he would not know exactly how much it would cost to fix it without spending more time on it. I spoke with the dealer and we were not able to reach a new price that was agreeable to both of us so I walked away from this one. My question is this: Are these types of leaks common-place with this car at this low mileage? I want to know because I will do another PPI on another M Coupe one of these days (hopefully soon) and I want to know if I should be alarmed at the leaks or not. These were all described to me as more like seepages rather than leaks - in other words, they were not dripping on the ground.Thank youSteve</description><pubDate>Thu, 29 Dec 2011 09:10:52 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>stowers</dc:creator></item><item><title>Air vacume leak</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4715-7-1.aspx</link><description>I own a 2005 745 iL with 97000 miles. My problem is the engine light keeps going on. I took it back to the dealer and they say that it could be the air intake valve, if its not the intake valve the the problem is in the heads which will cost you over $3400.00 to repair. Last week I spent $850.00 replacing suspention bars in the front end. Two weeks preveous I spent $1100.00 for breaks. I understand wear and tear but $3400.00 to repair an engine problem? They charged me $850.00 to change a valve that might have corrected the problem however it did not. Is this typical for BMWs as this is my first. I had it for 7 years, now that it is out of warrenty all these problems are popping up. I also have been adding a quart of oil from time to time usually every 3 months. the dealership told me they cannot find a leak and BMW allows a loss of a quart every 800 miles. Does this make sense or is it time to get rid of the car?Thank you</description><pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 07:51:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Frank B</dc:creator></item><item><title>Bluetooth passkey?</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4682-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi - Just got a 2006 M3 Coupe w/Bluetooth...but no manuals to document the BT passkey...anyone know how to otherwise go about finding the passcode?</description><pubDate>Thu, 29 Dec 2011 18:04:31 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>jabetances</dc:creator></item><item><title>1987 BMW 325 Steering Rack Failure Question</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4565-7-1.aspx</link><description>Year: 1987Make: BMWModel: 325 (the base model)Mileage: 169,997Condition: Average, no major issues, no major rust, well maintained.Transmission: Manual Engine 2.7liter eta Hello!I recently purchased a 1987 BMW 325 Sedan and need some help with figuring out my power steering rack issues. The owner never resolved the issue. Basically the symptoms are:1) Does not hold power steering fluid. (probably related to the photos below of the hose and boot)2) Car sounds like a WWII fighter plane on the highway, when making a left turn or bearing left, sound goes away. Car makes zero noise when still or at very slow speeds.3) As pictured below, the drivers side boot on the steering rack is open on one end.4) Obviously, there is no power steering.[b]Picture 1 &amp; 2 - Hose on steering rack. This hose had no slack in it and will not pull up to the connector.[/b][img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6223/6293217258_3db82e18a7.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6049/6293216778_c75367e5fd.jpg[/img][b]Picture 3 &amp; 4 - This boot is on the drivers side and is wide open. Looks like someone attempted to make a fix that failed. [/b][img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6031/6293218180_df02bbb343.jpg[/img] [img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6240/6293218612_c4d210607d.jpg[/img][img]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6212/6292694253_3bb485e348.jpg[/img]So my question is: Is this something that can be repaired, or will the rack need to be replaced. Do you have any recommendations? This is a project car and not a daily driver so its not an urgent need. Thank you very much for taking the time to read this and thanks in advance for any assistance. I hope the pictures are useful and that I have provided all the proper information.Have a great night! :)-Nate</description><pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2011 20:10:49 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>SalemMotorWerks</dc:creator></item><item><title>e36 radiator upgrade</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4637-7-1.aspx</link><description>The aluminum radiator shroud with electric fan seems to be a popular item on ebay and elsewhere. Does anyone have any experience with them? I'm especially curious about the quality, fit, cooling capability and operation of the fan. Any information is appreciated. I want it for my '99 M3. I think they are available for many BMW models.I'm also uncertain about the electrical connection to the fan. ebay sellers tell me it is plug and play, that the fan will only come on at operating temperature. Does anyone know if this is true? If so where do I plug in the radiator?</description><pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 20:37:16 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>BobK</dc:creator></item><item><title>1995 525iT with S52 Conversion and manual trans.</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4629-7-1.aspx</link><description>Car has developed a stumble/hesitation between 1K and 2K rpm. Also under hard acceleration stumble appears at higher rpm. So far I have replaced the TPS and run sea foam with the last tank full of gas. Problem is more pronounced when engine is up to opperating temp, though today for the first time it happened from cold. Car cruises happily on the highway. Thaere is no check engine light and no codes (OBD1) when a peak tool is plugged in.What should I go after next. MAF, idle control valve etc?RegardsMark</description><pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2011 13:59:58 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Dolly Sprint</dc:creator></item><item><title>rust warranty</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4647-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hey guys i recently noticed that my 2004 330xi has a rust bubble just above the back bumper. i heard bmw has a 12 year rust corrosion warranty am i wrong about this? do i have to go through the dealer?  mehcanical repairs have been done at indy bmw shops not sure if that voids the warranty.  i could really use some info    thank you</description><pubDate>Tue, 06 Dec 2011 11:17:58 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Hans78</dc:creator></item><item><title>S52 lifter noise</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4412-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Mike,My 1999 M coupe (62000 miles) appears to have developed one or more bad lifters.At my last autocross I noticed that the lifters hadn't quieted down after the lunch break and upon checking the oil I noticed it was a little low.  I added about a half quart of oil (10-40 Royal Purple), it quieted down and I finished my runs.  I drove it home and again the lifters were noisier than they should be.  I took it out today (4 days since the autocross) for a 60 mile commute and the lifters are still noisey.  The engine (S52) wasn't over-revved at the autocross (I never even hit the limiter) so I'm confused as to what caused the problem.  Any ideas?  Is the S52 normally this prone to damage?Thanks,Mark</description><pubDate>Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:58:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>markachambers</dc:creator></item><item><title>new "old" airbag?</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4604-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Mike,My 2000 328Ci (206,xxx miles) is showing an airbag fault.  The Peake code reader say it's the driver's firing circuit and indeed the airbag ignitor appears to be shorted (0.05x Ohms measured out of the car).  A salvage part I bought has the same problem. This airbag was only used in the E46 323 and 328, so any salvage parts are also 11 years old. What are the odds that BMW had some new bags made? I've called a couple of dealer parts departments asking about date codes as I don't really want to spend $750 on a bag that might not last very long, but no one seems to have any info on part date codes.Any ideas?  The car runs well and is in good shape overall.  It just seems stupid to write the car off over an airbag.Thanks,Mark</description><pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2011 12:57:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>markachambers</dc:creator></item><item><title>VANOS solenoid</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4609-7-1.aspx</link><description>Before removing the vanos solenoid in order to replace the camshaft position sensor on my E46 330 (M54), I managed to confuse myself about which way to turn the wrench!  It looks to me like the solenoid threads from the back of the engine towards the front, meaning that counterclockwise is towards the driver's side.  Standing in front of the car that means turning the wrench to the right, which seems like clockwise.  I'm easily confused.</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Nov 2011 15:27:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>maxell0405</dc:creator></item><item><title>Anti-Theft brakes</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4600-7-1.aspx</link><description>I took the dead battery out of my 86 325 BMW and now the rear wheels won't roll.  Does the car have to have an operating  battery for the wheels to roll. I tried towing it with a truck but it just dragged the back wheels on the pavement.</description><pubDate>Mon, 07 Nov 2011 15:34:47 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>warehambmw</dc:creator></item><item><title>1997 e36 M3 Bad steering rack</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4522-7-1.aspx</link><description>Pretty sure my steering rack is shot.  I started to pull out this am and the steering was extremely stiff.  I got out an noticed a trail of drips leading to a stain on the driveway just that would be a few inches toward the passenger side of the center of the engine bay.  Did not have time to jack up the car to look at the source of the leak yet.  Just looked up the cost of racks and a rebuilt is $700 from Turner and $850+ from Bavarian Auto.  But there are a bunch of "new" steering racks for sale on ebay for $275 or less.  What is the difference?  I am not looking forward to dropping big bucks on this if it is the same thing.</description><pubDate>Sat, 22 Oct 2011 11:36:09 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Stephen Murphy</dc:creator></item><item><title>Car feels loose, but REAL bad this morning</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4367-7-1.aspx</link><description>I've noticed over the past few weeks the car feels kind of loose at speed. On the highway, if I change lanes quickly, the car sort of wiggles a bit and leans going around corners. My guess is that my suspension is worn. This morning on my way to work on the highway, the car started vibrating and felt like I had a flat. Sort of plowing feeling. I drove it for about a mile and turned off the highway and into work. I checked the tires, and they seem to be fine. Any ideas? Is this standard stuff for a 2002 e46 M3 with 95K miles?I called the dealer, hopefully they can fit me in.-gh</description><pubDate>Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:32:03 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>greenwerks</dc:creator></item><item><title>1998 BMW  323i  won't start</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4539-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a BMW 323i that won't start.It was running and I went away on a trip.  When I came back and tried to start it, the battery was low and it didn't start.  I charged the battery (and also jumpered it to another battery) and it still won't start.  The dash lights all come on, and the headlights seem to be full power when turned on.  But it doesn't crank  -  never tries to turn over the engine.I thought that perhaps the problem was that the alarm system had been messed up.  I disconnected the battery and left it disconnected for two hours.  But that didn't help  -  when I connected it back up the starter still didn't work.Any ideas of what might be wrong and how to fix it?</description><pubDate>Wed, 26 Oct 2011 14:47:30 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>jdoutt</dc:creator></item><item><title>528i Half Shaft replacement</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4501-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 2000 528i with sport package option and 70,000 miles.The drivers side half shaft outer CV boot needs to be replaced. Based on one of your earlier postings I have decided to purchase a rebuilt shaft assembly. Can you recommend a supplier that you trust?Also, one set of instructions uses a hammer to hit the loose axle nut to separate the axle from the wheel bearing. Is this the correct procedure and if so does it damage the wheel bearing, will the bearing have to be replaced?We appreciate all the time you put into answering these questions, Thanks.</description><pubDate>Tue, 18 Oct 2011 10:50:37 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>new12v</dc:creator></item><item><title>Looking for a mechanic to purchase my 1999 BMW 528IT Wagon</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4500-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a fully loaded 1999 BMW 528IT Wagon that needs some TLC.  I already bought a new car and do not want to spend $ on getting the Bimmer fixed.  It needs: Body Control Module, Air Pump and new tires.  Rear differential also has a slight noise.Car runs amazing ... I still drive it every day.  Beautiful body condition ... Black with camel leather interior.  Low miles of 94K.  Fully loaded with all the bells and whistles.  Blue-Books for $6,400 ... Will sell for $3,800 OBO.Call Mark at 617-312-1039 if interested.  I live in Brookline.</description><pubDate>Tue, 18 Oct 2011 10:26:22 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>marknodnol</dc:creator></item><item><title>5 Series Fitment of e34 wheels upon E28</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4469-7-1.aspx</link><description>In general terms, is the offset and hub diameter suitable to allow the fitment of the later e34 wheels on the 525 series?</description><pubDate>Mon, 03 Oct 2011 12:42:50 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Paul in Boston</dc:creator></item><item><title>convertible top motor not re-engaging</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4403-7-1.aspx</link><description>Seems that my car is falling apart on the top and the undercarriage at the same time ;)I have a 94 325i convertible with the electro-mechanical top.  The top has failed to close on 2 occassions (motor just stopped working)  I have resynched the motors and the top worked for a few more times.  Yesterday, the top motor would not stay inserted into its housing.  When I tried to raise the top the cover rose and the top started to rise then the motor made a fairly loud, unhealthy grinding sound.  I resynched everything (following the Bentley steps as well as a few other steps from youtube)   The top motor can be reset but as soon as I try to raise the top, the motor pops out of the housing.  Could I have stretched a cable? or do I need a new top motor?  Any guidance will be appreciated.ThanksMark</description><pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 23:22:19 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>msr01908</dc:creator></item><item><title>Up and down idle at red lights and stalling at idle</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4439-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 2002 325i. It has the manual transmission. It has started this kind of irratic idle prob. When I stop at a red light it will go up and down from 1500 rpm down to an almost stall then jump right back up. It will do this until I pop the gas pedal then it idles perfectly at about 800 rpm. It also likes to stall from time to time when I go to take off, giving the appearence that I can't drive a stick. I have discovered that If you lightly step on the pedal to say bring it up to 900 or a 1000 rpm as you would do to begin engaging the clutch, it seems to be when the problem starts. The engine light is on but it only has one TC and it says that the engine temp is below normal. Thanks for your help.</description><pubDate>Wed, 21 Sep 2011 17:44:59 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>paulheaton</dc:creator></item><item><title>adding electronics to an older (2001) BMW</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4465-7-1.aspx</link><description>I would like to find someone who can add these electronics without cutting into things, I am looking for options and solutions, I am open to suggestions, thanks.</description><pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2011 11:40:15 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>SNL</dc:creator></item><item><title>audible click when braking</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4402-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 94 325i convertible.  Recently I replaced the front struts.  Right after that, I started to hear a click whenever I would initially apply the brakes.  It only happens on the first application of the brakes (if I brake then coast and apply the brakes again it only clicks on the first press of the brake pad).  Other recent work has included new rear springs and shocks and brake pads and rotors all around.  It sounds like it comes from the front end and is actually 2 clicks, and appears to come from the left then the right.  Could it be the brake pads or am I looking at ball joints or some other suspension repair?</description><pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 23:16:09 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>msr01908</dc:creator></item><item><title>AC troubleshooting procedure?</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4238-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hello Mike,The AC in my car stopped blowing cold air. Could you give me a couple of things to check first to possibly isolate the problem? The Bentley manual only has part replacement instructions and offers zero on troubleshooting.Things to note: AC worked great last year, this season, nothing. The AC light comes on when the button is pressed, then some flaps can be heard moving in the HVAC system behind the dash, which was normal in previous seasons. The AC hasn't had any work or a recharge for at least 6 years (possibly ever). Even for the age it always ran on R134a coolant, never on R12 Freon. Nothing obvious for fuses under the front hood. I'm considering one of those auto store recharge kits, any advice/things to check would be great.Thanks Mike,-Patrick S.'94 530i 5pd. 190K - good condition considering... ;)</description><pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2011 02:30:26 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>BlueE34</dc:creator></item><item><title>2006  X5 rear door stuck closed</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4325-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Mike-I have an '06 X5, 100k miles, very good condition.  About two months ago the hazard light / auto lock button stopped functioning.  I suspect a fuse or a short as nothing else has stopped functioning.  Anyway, I had planned on getting that looked at (or just checking the fuse) at some point when, with no indication of failure when I last shut the rear passenger door on the drive side I was never able to again open it.  It is the only door where there is a problem.   I can utilize the key to lock/unlock all doors.  I can see the lock pin move up and down on the door when using the key to do so.  I have attempted to 'bump the door more shut', but it appears flush with the body.  I have also attempted to open/bump from the inside.  I do not believe anything got stuck in the door, although possible, but unlikely.  The window on that door works perfectly.  I just cannot open it.Any ideas?  Any guess on what I am in for as far as time/diagnostics/labor/money?  I live in Boston but could obviously travel to somewhere you may recommend.  I was initially thinking locksmith to avoid dealer costs. . . but familiarity may be the key.  Any thoughts you may have would be appreciated and thanks for all of your help.-Brian</description><pubDate>Wed, 03 Aug 2011 01:49:43 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>bpk1122</dc:creator></item><item><title>faded pixels</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4334-7-1.aspx</link><description>hi mike   i have a 04  x 5 and radio is starting to loose pixels and is getting hard to read. do you know of any fixes or where i can get looked at   thanks ken</description><pubDate>Mon, 08 Aug 2011 17:07:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>kenjohn</dc:creator></item><item><title>Noisey AC on E39 540</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4310-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a noisey AC compressor on a1997 E39 540 with 165,000 miles. It works OK but sounds like a chatter at low speed, but not noticable at high speed. Does anyone have experience with the compressor clutch going bad or an idler pulley, rather than the compressor? I can do the mechanical compressor replacement, if needed. Any recommendations on brand of compressor to purchase? I've found a $300 unit online. What will the cost be to replace the freon?Thanks,bob</description><pubDate>Tue, 26 Jul 2011 08:54:39 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>bzockoff</dc:creator></item><item><title>ac problem</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4297-7-1.aspx</link><description>hey guys when i turn my ac on in my 04 330xi it blows warm air. the ac light works but i dont hear the compressor like i usually do.i thought it needed a recharge so i took it to midas they said freon was ok still had some left. i checked the glovebox fuses they look ok too. any thoughts?                                               Thanks                                                        Dan</description><pubDate>Mon, 18 Jul 2011 14:50:09 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Hans78</dc:creator></item><item><title>Dsc lights</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4098-7-1.aspx</link><description>hey guys i have a 2004 330xi i went to start the car and  all at once the dsc abs and brakes yellow lights went on.  i tried turning the dsc back on but nothing happens. think it could be a fuse? will i damage the car if i drive it?</description><pubDate>Mon, 02 May 2011 08:55:16 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Hans78</dc:creator></item><item><title>fuel line popped off</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4220-7-1.aspx</link><description>I had something interesting happen. Went to depart from work, starter cranked but no start. Tried a couple times without success, so I got out and opened the hood. When I got to the front of the car, I saw a puddle and thought I had a massive oil leak only to smell and realize it was a fuel leak! Looking at the source seemed to indicate that the fuel was coming from the fuel filter area, which is coincidental as the fuel filter had been changed by an indy almost two months prior. I had it flatbedded the 30 miles to him, and he inspected the leak area. He noted that the fuel had been leaking for at least a little while as there was evidence of fuel on the exhaust (not a good thing, I think!) and that there was a snap on hose, similar to the one at the rear of the filter, that had popped off and was dumping fuel under fuel pump pressure. I don't think he disconnected this during the filter change, only parts that were threaded at the front; I am pretty sure I'd have noticed if he had to do something similar to what he did (and the tool he used) at the rear of the filter. Strange coincidence?Apparently, the part is out of supply in the states and has to come from Germany!Anyone else had this occur? Any thoughts in general? I find it a bit weird that no parts exist in the country. I think it is part number 16122229410, from section 16, fuel supply and fuel feed, on realoem.com, but I can't tell whether this is a snap on fitting. In any event, I think it is good that it came apart completely in a parking lot as opposed to during the commute!</description><pubDate>Sat, 11 Jun 2011 08:45:56 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>silbul</dc:creator></item><item><title>E46 air bag fault</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4236-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi Mike,My 2000 328Ci (201,406 miles) has illuminated the air bag fault lamp.  My Peake Research R5/SRS reads back the code as firing circuit, driver airbag, stage 1.  What has your experience been with this type of fault?I suspect the steering wheel slip ring although all of the other functions (cruise and radio) on the multi-function wheel still work. The air bag controller was replaced at 175,000 miles so it's not high on my list of suspects.Thanks,Mark</description><pubDate>Tue, 21 Jun 2011 13:43:03 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>markachambers</dc:creator></item><item><title>dtc code p1519 and p0101</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4241-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hi, I have 99 m3 with the following codes, p1519 and p0101. The car revs fine but would not idle good at all. Thanks for you help in advanceKevin</description><pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2011 17:22:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>kevinps</dc:creator></item><item><title>Convertible top on 2005 330Cic doesn't retract...</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4131-7-1.aspx</link><description>I have a 2005 330Cic with 52K… and the button on the key fob and center console to open the top doesn’t respond when I depress them… No light blinks, no motors are active… It hasn’t happened before… and I am curious to see if there is a reason why it would not work. The cavity in the trunk that allows the folded top to rest is fully expanded, but I haven’t checked fuses, or anything else.. Any thoughts would be appreciated.  </description><pubDate>Fri, 06 May 2011 11:57:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>EricKaul</dc:creator></item><item><title>Recommend a BMW repair shop in or near Worcester/Central Mass</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4185-7-1.aspx</link><description>I'm trying to find a good repair shop with experience working with BMWs preferrably 7 series. I have an 02 745i. Thanks.</description><pubDate>Thu, 26 May 2011 13:11:10 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>antam23</dc:creator></item><item><title>Power locks problem.</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4146-7-1.aspx</link><description>My keyless entry system died a while back and I finally replaced it. The only problem now is that there doesn't seem to be enough power to reliably operate the locks. They always bump when you try to lock or unlock but they have never locked and only 3 of the 4 doors unlock. The trunk bumps but won't lock or unlock. I am going to try lubing the heck out of all the lock mechanisms. Any other ideas?Thanks,Steve</description><pubDate>Wed, 11 May 2011 20:42:36 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>bigblocka</dc:creator></item><item><title>01 E46 325 radio</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4140-7-1.aspx</link><description>My mother's 2001 E46 325ix is having radio problems.  She needs a left front speaker, which i will replace with one from bavarian performance.  Her head unit is a little problematic too.  Up until a few days ago, her volume knob was difficult to turn.  A day or two ago, it broke, and now it won't turn on and off.  It still turns the volume up and down. Anyway, my question:  If i buy a used radio from someone on a forum, will i be able to swap it in, as long as i have their radio code?  Are there any security features that i should be aware of?Thanks,Jon</description><pubDate>Tue, 10 May 2011 12:56:56 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>cowenj1</dc:creator></item><item><title>Changed flat - damaged threads in hub</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4095-7-1.aspx</link><description>Hit a curb today with my 08 550i.  Still had the snows on and damaged sidewall.  Got my summer tire from home and did a curbside change, but one lug went in cockeyed and damaged threads in both hub and lug.  I tried a lug with clean threads but it still will not catch.  Drove home slowly on four lugs.  Is there a way to clean up the threads? Tried Autozone but they did not sell a tap large enough.  Hope I do not have to replace entire hub.</description><pubDate>Sun, 01 May 2011 16:23:29 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Stephen Murphy</dc:creator></item><item><title>misfire cylinder 5; 2003 525I</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4133-7-1.aspx</link><description>hi, my 2003 525I started running rough and sending codes for multiple misfiring. found a hole in lower air intake hose and replaced. Started only misfiring on cyl 5 after replacing plugs (5 plug wet). Moved 5 coil to cylinder 1 and misfire code and behavior followed. Changed coil and ran great for 5-10 minutes and started same misfiring and code on cylinder 5. Help!</description><pubDate>Sat, 07 May 2011 08:02:45 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>rickstone1340</dc:creator></item><item><title>Hydraulic fluid reservior leak-97E36M</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4066-7-1.aspx</link><description>I seem to have a leak coming from the bottom of my hydraulic fluid reservoir. Is this common? Should I try to replace the can?</description><pubDate>Tue, 26 Apr 2011 21:47:10 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item><item><title>???Mechanic in MetroWest to weld/repair rear sway bar link</title><link>http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/instantforum/Topic4077-7-1.aspx</link><description>Does anyone have a suggestion? Not sure where I should start looking?</description><pubDate>Wed, 27 Apr 2011 16:04:23 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>eyelise</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>
